Fit Of The Garment
A cofortable classic cut leaving room for movement without looking shapeless.
A modern, slim cut that compliments your body yet leaves room for movement.
A very narrow fit. Contours your body closely with limited room for movement.
The “notch” is the opening where the bottom of the collar meets the top of the lapel, usually at a 75 – 90 degree angle. The notch lapel is the most common lapel for a reason – it’s the most versatile of the bunch. It is most often found in single-breasted suit jackets, blazers and sports coats. If you only own one suit, this is the lapel type to go with.
Peak lapels are traditionally the most formal of the lapels and were originally common in formal wear garments such as tailcoats and morning coats. Peak lapels will tend to look a little more fashion-forward (especially if you decide to go the Lapo Elkann route). In actuality, peak lapels have been around for over 100 years. It is also the most expensive lapel to manufacture (requires the most amount of skill).
Characterized by a rounded edge, the shawl lapel is most common on dinner jackets / tuxedos (for those nights you plan on taking down a couple of Oscars or upstaging the groomsmen at a friend’s wedding). While you will rarely see a shawl collar on anything other than a tuxedo (or smoking jacket), many style enthusiasts will argue that the shawl lapel can be more of an informal variation of evening wear.
Pocket And Ticket Pocket
A ticket pocket was originally used to hold train tickets. It is considered a more casual detail.
The flap pocket will add a touch of thickness on the hip. This is the most common pocket and works well with any event.
The jetted pocket is more dressy, which explains why it is traditionally found on the tuxedo.
Allows for more fluid movement hands. It gives the wearer added shape. The flap comes up when you sit or put your hands in your pockets – preventing the jacket from creasing and keeps the backside covered.
I am not a fan of the single vent suit jacket for men. It exposes their backside when they place their hands in the trouser pockets. The least expensive option – it gives the wearer a boxy appearance.
No Vent (ventless)
Preferred by Italians, this style is more fitted. The downside is when you put your hands in your pockets or sit down – the jacket creases and bunches up in the back.